World-class wines, local vines

A new face shakes up the industry, enchanting winery daytrips and our experts rate Ohio's wines

By Jenny Pavlasek

I'm heading south on U.S. Rte 62 toward the Ohio River, and it's hot. I expect to pass a "Face of the Sun, Next Two Exits" sign at any moment as I'm en route to visit Ron Barrett, a man who cut his teeth on Pinot Noir in Oregon and is now trying his hand at Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Viognier and Riesling... in Ripley.

Depending on whom you're asking, Barrett is either a skilled entrepreneur or completely nuts. When he and partner Nancy Bentley bought their 126-acre farm in 1997 on a sunny ridge in this river town, they might have voted for the latter. But the two are determined to show that they can grow good wine grapes and make distinguished wines in this state. And while they aren't the first winemakers here to declare this mission statement, the experience they bring may be just what Ohio needs to establish itself as a viable wine region to the rest of the world.

Barrett, who holds a degree in electrical engineering, returned to his native Ohio with the vision of Kinkead Ridge Vineyard (slated to open in 2002) after more than 20 years out West. Given that Oregon, like California, went from having a grass-roots wine industry in the late 1960s to its current celebrity status, his background is not to be dismissed. After working with Knudsen Erath Winery, Barrett purchased and managed more than 40 acres of vines, selling his grapes to prominent Portland wineries. With this hardcore experience, Barrett and Bentley knew what they needed before they got here, and found it in the rich limestone soils of their land overlooking the Ohio River. "(Ohio is) never going to make it (in the wine industry) unless we grow vinifera," Barrett says, referring to the vine species vitis vinifera, which includes Cabernet Sauvignon, and other highly recognized grape varieties. "If you have a good site, you can do it."

Barrett and Bentley certainly aren't the first to grow vinifera grapes here. Arnie Esterer came from New York and planted vinifera vines at Markko Vineyard in 1968. Other Ohio vineyards such as Ferrante, Chalet Debonne, Firelands and Harpersfield, among others, all make wine from vinifera grapes. But Barrett is the first to come here with survival skills spawned from proving himself in a fledgling industry. And this has given him unmatched insight into what it takes to go from being a rookie to making the cover of wine magazines.

In 1976, when Barrett first became involved with Oregon's wine business, it was still a cottage industry. "It was rare for anyone to have more than 10 acres planted," he says. According to Barrett, while the winemaking was still irregular and inconsistent at this point, Oregon did have a few things going for it.

"First, the (grape) growers had good political instincts," he says. "They banded together early and realized their primary mission was to lobby for issues small wineries needed to survive. (And) they hung their hat on vinifera from the start."

That second part is where key players in Ohio's industry diverge. A trip to many of the state's wineries will turn up more native-grape wines such as Concord and Catawba, as well as hybrids such as Chamboursin and Vidal. Not that this is a bad thing. But as with any industry, image is everything in the wine business. And these grapes aren't on the radar screens of most wine enthusiasts on the planet. ...

Kinkead Ridge is not open for business yet, but when Barrett and Bentley release their first bottles next year, at least one keen eye will be watching. Last March, famed wine writer and broadcaster Andrew Jones paid the couple a visit, interviewing Barrett for his web site, www.wineontheweb.com. At the end of the interview he planned to chart Kinkead Ridge's progress on the web site. And if the eyes of wine lovers worldwide are on this small winery in Ripley, then on some level, they're on Ohio as well.

Kinkead Ridge plans to open next year, and even then, winery visits will be appointment only.